More serious defects, such as larger dust particles, paint sags or heavy `orange peel' effect can be rectified using ultra-fine wetordry paper , used wet with plenty of soapy water. Use 1200 grade or finer if available, especially on dark colours. A soft sponge rubbing block is best to avoid leaving finger tramlines in the surface. Flat the affected paintwork until the surface is smooth, rinsing the abrasive paper often to avoid damage to the fresh surface. Wiping the surface clean and letting it dry usually shows whether flatting has removed all the defects. Remember, only remove the minimum of paint to level the surface, as restoring the gloss with compound will remove a little more.
Use a medium grade rubbing compound to remove the flatting marks, either manually or by machine. If working by hand, wherever possible rub in straight lines along the panel. Using a circular motion tends to leave swirls which are difficult to remove with finer grades. Use a clean, dry cloth to regularly buff the area to assess progress. When the flatting marks have given way to a gloss, finish with a fine grade compound to remove any swirls left by the previous compound. It is usually best to process one panel or area at a time, otherwise it can become a daunting task, especially by hand. It is possible to flat and polish the whole car in this way, and it produces an absolutely mirror finish when done correctly, but it is time consuming and runs the risk of `cut-through' in awkward places, requiring further paintwork.
Only when all compounding is complete is it worth considering waxes or other surface treatments. Their use any earlier would be at best a waste of time, and at worst might contaminate surfaces which may need further paintwork.
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